Ardfin Estate

Ardfin is a unique course in an exceptional location.

The journey itself is an experience. The ferry from mainland Scotland from Kennacraig to Port Askaig on Islay takes 2 hours. Another follows this, a shorter ferry just across the strait to the sparsely populated island of Jura in the west of Scotland. Then it's just a 10-minute drive to the Ardfin Estate.

We park in a small car park. Even arriving at the luxurious clubhouse with its glass roof and large whisky bar is impressive. Let alone the adjoining dining room full of hunting trophies and other artefacts.

The path to the driving range and 1st hole is quite long and runs above the owner's residence. The tees on the driving range are stylishly marked with deer antlers.

There are no distractions of civilization throughout the course, and there are no fairway distance markers or distance pins, which is great. A small lighthouse can be seen on the opposite island of Islay. Occasionally a boat will pass through the strait. The course is an oasis of peace. You're more likely to see deer and seagulls than golfers during play.

The first to seventh holes are perched on cliffs with fabulous views. Holes 5th and 6th share a wide fairway. The greens are fast and undulating and take a long time to get used to. The walkway to the eighth hole runs under the owner's residence, past the greenhouse where sandwiches and drinks are served in the summer.

The 8th hole is tricky, but the view from the tee is breathtaking. Narrow, winding fairway and a rock on the right. The accuracy above all, which of course applies to the whole course.

The transition between the eighth green and the ninth tee is interspersed with the "19th hole", a short par 3.10th is one of the top holes. Don't worry about your tee shot and go for the farthest black. From the rock outcropping, you will see the flag flutter across an overgrown ravine just 178 yards in the distance. Attempt it despite the risk of losing the ball, you just have to try. Generally, ball losses are unavoidable in extra-dense rough. Don't worry about it. Ardfin is all about the experience. This also comes in the form of refreshments in the stylish Boat House after the 11th hole. As well as soup or a main course, try the single malt whisky from the local Jura Distillery. If you take off your wet shoes and clothes, they'll dry them quickly at the local drying room.

The par 3 12th hole is another challenge from the black tees. But you don't have to play across the sea, go to the closer tees. The 13th and 14th stretch along the Sea. From 15th, the climb back begins. The final 18th, par 5 is again the top hole. On the way back to the clubhouse you can still test the nine-hole pitch and putt course.

The course opened in 2015. So far, less than 1,000 golfers have had the opportunity to play this unique course, which is one of the top 100 courses in the world. The season runs from May to early October. At the end of September, the course will open for one week as part of the Golfweek event to more golfers at a lower price than usual. Tee time must be planned in advance. The cost per game is high. Details can be found at ardfin. com. But playing Ardfin is an experience of a lifetime.

Where to start? Well, reputationally Ardfin is up there on the list of top bucket list courses in the UK. It's situated on the Isle of Jura off Scotland's West Coast, and a minimum of 2 ferry rides from the Mull of Kintyre, unless you're the owner, Australian billionaire Greg Coffey, who helecopters in!

Access is extremely limited - less than 800 golfers have played it since it opened. Normally you have to stay overnight on the estate, and to stay and play you need to budget at least £3,000. We were fortunate to discover there were some end of season golf only rates - but even so the green fee was £500. YOLO and all that.

You are welcomed at a converted stables building which is the height of luxury. Service is as you would expect, and the food and drinks of the highest standard. Rather oddly, there isn't a locker room. You get changed anywhere you like, and there are no showers - I suspect because guests are usually shuttled to and from their accommodation to the course.

Yes, the course... we visited after 2 of the heaviest days' rain for years, and to be honest it shouldn't have been open. It's built on former farm land and moorland which is boggy and wet at the best of times, but we were paddling through water on every fairway, and most of our party slipped and fell at least once.

I need to not let the conditions impact my review. The course has many stunning holes, and when it's not raining I imagine the views would be truly spectacular. I'm really in 2 minds about how I view the course. It has a couple of weak holes - 1 and 5 come to mind, as well as some of the most difficult I've ever played - especially the run from 8 to 14. These holes, particularly the tee shots on 8,10 and 13 remind me of those fantasy golf holes that Golf Illustrated used to publish in the 1980s. Everyone said "take lots of golf balls". Having played the first 7 in rain and a gale I had the same ball and wondered what all the fuss was about. I must have lost 8 in the next 6 holes, including the famous 19th hole, a spectacular par 3 between holes 8 and 9.

What makes it so hard? Long carries off the tee, narrow fairways, some exceptionally small and well guarded greens - miss by a yard in some cases and it's a lost ball. Did I enjoy it, despite the weather? Yes, absolutely. Would I like the chance to play it again on a nice summer's day? 100%. Would I like to play there every day. No way - I'd fall out of love with the game after a week! Do I think it deserves it's elevated place in the UK and world rankings? I'm really not sure! It's a bit Jekyll and Hyde - some days I'd love it, others I'd hate it. It is however an absolute must play if you get the chance...

Oh, and if you're lucky enough to ever get the chance to play. Don't bother with a forecaddy. Ours was absolutely hopeless!

A dizzying combination of wonderfully scenic, dramatic golf holes with world-class, ultra-exclusive accommodation.

If anywhere matches our stay at Ardfin during our travels, we will be very, very lucky.

Its Australian billionaire owner Greg Coffey and designer Bob Harrison carved a course out of the cliffs on the tiny Scottish island of Jura – known only for its whisky and 6,000 deer.

The word in the top 100 golfing community was that he may decide to close it to the public, so I was advised that if I wanted to complete my quest, I should pay, have a fantastic time and not look over my shoulder.

On top of the most expensive room we have ever stayed in, was the cost of the golf and of the food but, in for a penny, in for a few thousand pounds.

Our visit came just two weeks after Mrs W’s final episode in her successful cancer treatment and a month after our 35th wedding anniversary, so we both agreed to go for it.

Ardfin has created a mystique. False rumours about it abound – for example, we were told there was an honours board for those who don’t lose a ball and, more importantly, that the course’s condition had seriously declined.

Let me put the latter myth to bed… everything about Ardfin from the moment the gates open, is sensational.

After relaxing in our wonderful accommodation for a few hours, we embarked on the seven-course tasting menu. This was probably the finest food to pass my lips in my 60 years.

The next day was the golf. We were only likely to be at Ardfin once, so we decided to try two rounds.

Given our respective physical conditions and age, we inquired about a buggy. When we were told it would cost £300 (!), we plumped for our push carts. The course is hilly and is a long walk. Thus, we were pleased we managed 34 holes.

Even Ardfin’s infinity practice putting green will live in the memory for a long time.

Strategy and big, straight hitting are key once the round begins. Many holes have long carry from the tee and anything offline is dead. I mean it – if a ball enters more than two feet into the dense rough, it will be lost.

Our Garmin watches didn’t pick up their satellite, so we relied on the yardage book. I now wish I had paid more attention to its green descriptions because putting surfaces are often longer, wider and subtler than appear from a distance.

Every hole is worthy of lengthy description but suffice it to say it was one of the great experiences of our life.

But there is a PS - be prepared to pay heavily for any extras. For example, I was dumbfounded by the charge of £60 for a cap and pretty miffed by the service charges on our very sizeable bill.

Incredible performance; very expensiv; we are alone on the course;.

If you played and stayed at Ardfin you probably will never forget it. Arsdfin isn’t easy to reach. The course is located on the southern tip of Jura, a Hebridean island (west coast of Scotland). It takesa long drive and at least a boat trip to get there. This place is set one of the most dramatic coastlines in Scotland. This part of Scotland is known for its weather, so it might be worthwhile to plan when you are going here (or at least take appropriate clothing with you).

If you want to play Ardfin, you will have to stay on the resort. It's not cheap, but the experience is second to none. Also, this is not a course for high handicap players. It is a tough course, perhaps even one of the most difficult ones I ever played. It must have been very difficult to build this course, as it mainly consists of rocky terrain. So no sandy soil here. Expect amazing views, great maintenance and just a very demanding round of golf. Especially if the wind is blowing or if it is raining. But, a bucket list course for sure.